In The Press
From AtlantasFinestDining.com:
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 July 2, 2003 - Doc Lawrence
WINE & BARBEQUE
The subject would have been taboo a few years ago. Barbeque-whether pork, beef or chicken-was a delicacy to be consumed exclusively with beer. That was almost law in these parts, and like every other unchallenged habit, this combination became a custom practiced as though it was the eleventh commandment. But, like they say, for every law there's bound to be an outlaw somewhere.
With all that July means (which is mostly celebrating the Fourth and outdoor barbequing), I confess to something heretical: wines-red, white and rosé-pair very well with barbeque, and in this sinner's opinion, often offer more in taste enhancement and meal enjoyment than beer. Knowing that local skeptics are legion, I did a bit of scientific research and combined the results with my very subjective tasting before reaching this irrefutable conclusion.
Now, let's listen to some experts. Christine Ansbacher, one of 36 certified wine experts in this country, sent me an E-mail explaining that barbequing "caramelizes the juices in chicken, pork and beef which adds some 'sweetness' to the smokey taste of the food." She added that this sweetness "is complimented by wines that are aged in oak which have caramelized and smokey flavors as well. Thus, a Chardonnay would be a delicious wine with plain BBQ'd chicken and a Cabernet would be great with a plain BBQ'd steak. But when you have a 'bridge' ingredient like a zesty BBQ sauce on top of the chicken, beef or pork, this will drastically affect the taste of the overall dish requiring as different wine partner. What you need to dampen the fire of a hot or zesty sauce is the 'sweetness' from a more fruity wine. " She advises: "throw out your chicken-Chardonnay mindset, and for those big, zesty sauces on chicken, pork or beef ribs, think of fruity wines like Zinfandel, Shiraz and Merlot to come to the rescue as well as Sangiovese and 'Rhone Ranger' blends from primarily Syrah and Grenache."
I concur with Ms. Ansbacher because of her expertise, and because I subjected her conclusions to Doc's scrutiny, which means I enjoyed a few varieties of barbeque with a few glasses of her recommendations. Viola!
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